Things I've learned

Some things I've learned the hard way. Ok, I'm hard headed so I learn MOST things that way. In any event, what follows are some of the things I found worthy of mention...

Wind Tricks

Some people are surprised to learn that even a lee shore can provide some relief from the wind. Not as much as a windward shore, but if it is the only choice, it can provide some relief.

There is often confusion of which shore is the lee shore. It is easy to assume if the wind is out of the North, and there are trees along the North shore providing a place near shore where the wind is not blowing, that this is the lee shore. Not so. A lee is a direction, not a protected area from the wind. Sitting in the middle of the river, the windward shore is the shore up wind from your location, and the lee shore is the shore downwind of your location. Usually, the lee shore is windier than the windward shore.

Still with me? But a lee shore *can* provide some relief from the wind. As the wind rushes across the water towards shore, tall trees, high cliffs or even houses built near shore, these objects can help hold the wind back, causing it to rise up over these tall items and create an area that is less windy near the lee shore. However, you also have to be careful as the shallow water in near shore can also cause any waves to grow larger. I've often found myself working a fine balance between the larger waves and the decreased wind.

Pogies and Water Bottles

When paddling in the winter I often use a single pogie on my paddle. With two pogies my hands get too warm and I don't like the claustrophobic feeling I get with both hands tied to the paddle. With a single pogie I can just slide it from one hand position to the other as needed, and let it stay comfortably out of the way in the center when not.

But what to do with the second pogie? I discovered one day when laying on the water to cool off that my water bottle would come loose from the deck bungees and slip into the water. Finally I took the second pogie and attached it to the second deck line in front of my cockpit. This made a perfect pocket for my water bottle and after securing the other end of the bottle under the first deck line I would not have any other problems with it the rest of the day. I am so pleased that a pogie might become a permanent fixture on my deck...

Getting the Edge

Foot Peg Adjustment:

How are your foot pegs adjusted? If you are like many kayakers, you have your pegs positioned so you can comfortably touch your knees to the underside of the deck. And like those many folks, you probably paddle that way most of the time, yes?

Let me suggest to you that for most flat-water paddling you want your legs straight. This allows you to transfer your forward paddling from your paddle, to your body, directly into your kayak at the foot pegs.

There are other reasons you want to do this as well, but first let me finish telling you about the adjustment:

Sit in your kayak with your legs straight and your butt fully in the back of the seat. With the bottom of your feet at 90 degrees to the hull (and your legs), the balls of your feet should be in contact with the foot peg. With a slight forward tilt of your toes, you should easily be able to bring your knees up to touch the underside of your deck. If not, pad the underside of your deck so that you can both sit with your legs straight, yet contact the deck with just a slight bend in the foot.

Many people paddle with their knees in contact with the deck all the time. This actually hampers good edging control, and can make learning to roll more difficult as you will see in the discussion below on rolling.

Edging:

With your foot pegs now properly adjusted, try edging your kayak in the following manner: Raise your left knee to contact the deck by applying pressure to the foot-peg with your left foot. With your right knee, press the back of it toward the hull so that you are pulling up on the left knee, and pushing down with the right.

This will lock you in the kayak and give better balance and edge control than if you have both knees locked under the deck. You'll also find it is easier to hold this position for longer periods of time. Simply reverse the knee positions for edging in the other direction.

Rolling:

How many times have you told someone, or had someone tell you "Keep your head down!" ???

The problem with raising the head and telling someone not to do it is that it is only a symptom, not the cause of failed rolls. If we eliminate the ability to raise the head, the rolling student will find this task much easier to master.

In our example, we'll use going over on the right side and coming back up (1/2 roll) on the same side to illustrate. We'll begin with our setup - we will fall to our right, but before we do, drop the left knee and lift the right knee so it touches the deck. With the left knee pressing down, capsize to the right and hold your knees in that position (right knee pulling up against the deck, back of left knee pushing against the hull).

In this position, if you roll back up on the same side, you will find it almost impossible to raise your head. Without the left knee against the underside of the deck, you won't have anything to pull against to lift your head.

Remember, lifting the head is a symptom - pulling against the deck with the left knee is the cause - and doing exactly the opposite - pushing the the back of the left knee against the hull, will help rotate the kayak under you as you roll up.

Another way to remember this is if you engage that left knee to the deck and raise your head, you in effect will be pulling the left side of your kayak and your head toward each other. Most of the time this means you will simply pull the kayak back over on top of you and cause other people to yell "Keep your head down!"

High Brace:

Hey, I bet by now you are catching on. That is right - the back of one knee down against the hull and one knee up against the deck. As in the example above try a high brace on your right side and you will find it much easier to come back up with your knees touching opposite halves of the kayak.

Woody

Storm Paddling

As I honed my rough water skills over the years, I found the number of people from which to seek advice dropped off to almost none. This is in part because the majority of sea kayakers are fair weather paddlers. This is fine for the majority of those who are comfortable with paddling only in benign conditions. However, there is also a group of rough water experienced paddlers who are reluctant to give advice in how to practice. For the few who want to be prepared for most anything mother nature can throw at us, we have to go out in less than ideal conditions, and often without mentors to help us along.

People who have attained these skills often discourage anyone else from following. After all, who wants to be the guy who encouraged the paddler that went off storm paddling and never returned? Getting advice from very experienced paddlers on more dangerous paddles can be like getting blood from a turnip. No one wants to encourage someone to take risk. Finding an experienced paddler to go out with you can be even more of a challenge than getting advice.

So this next bit is written for those that are going to do it anyway. Even if I say 'you shouldn't do it' or 'it is too dangerous', you are hell bent on going anyway because you know it is the only way to expand your skills above your current level. Secretly, I wish I could go with you.

You can, in a lot of cases, expand those skills rather safely. What you need, within tolerable driving distances, are soft shores facing each of the four compass points. Planning your trip on the day of your paddle to launch so that if you get in trouble, wind and/or current will carry you ashore.

It should be noted that fall and winter normally produce the roughest weather. Because of this, dressing for immersion is a MUST. You must be dressed as though you will be bobbing around in the water for quite a while, until you are blown ashore. If you can't dress for immersion, you have no business being there - period.

Finding rough water is more patience than art. You need to be able to pass over paddling days with calm weather, using them to get weekly chores accomplished, so that with barely 24 hours notice you can go out and play in rougher water. My entire second paddling season was spent building my skills, and I was fortunate to get a lot of days with small craft advisories to go play in.

Save picking your launch location until just before you get on the road. Wind direction is important, and you want to pick a place so that if you get in trouble, the wind will blow you ashore. Be mindful of currents when picking your location. A strong current can carry you in the wrong direction should you find yourself in it. At the same time, let someone know where you are going. In Japan, all of my more risky paddling was solo, so as I was pulling out of the driveway early in the morning, I dropped a pre-arranged note into my neighbor's mailbox with my launch location and expected return time.

Carry a portable VHF radio. This serves two purposes: It provides a means of calling for help if you need it and it gives you access to the latest weather information.

Paddle in near shore. Shallow water is more difficult to paddle in when the water is rough as the waves will rise and more easily break. After wet exiting you may be able to stand up and walk ashore if the water is shallow enough. At the same time, don't practice paddling in and around rocky shores. The last thing you want to risk is knocking yourself unconscious.

Don't lull yourself into just paddling into the wind/waves during the rough stuff. This is the most stable position for a kayak, but at some point you will need to turn around. If paddling into the wind/waves was pressing your limits, turning around will probably be too much for you. Learn to low/high brace with waves coming at you broadside so you can at least learn to side slip (bongo slide) with the wind/waves.

Be aware that paddling past bulkheads, steep shores, or rock piles will be more confused and difficult to paddle in as waves are reflected off of them back into the incoming waves.

Wear any safety gear you will need (such as your VHF/flares) if you come out of your kayak. Your boat can speed away MUCH faster than you can swim after it if you lose contact with it. Believe in the old adage 'if you don't have it on you, you don't have it'. If you need to wet exit, make sure you have a firm grip on both your paddle and kayak. If you must give up one, hang on to the kayak as the paddle will travel more slowly in the water. Carry a spare paddle on your rear deck and losing your paddle becomes only a minor issue.

High winds will cause you to consider things that flat water paddling never did. I once capsized in a very high wind and had to wet exit after my roll failed. When I bobbed back to the surface, holding on to my kayak, I caught sight of my paddle cartwheeling across the surface before it finally landed flat in the water a good 30 feet away.

The fetch - distance that winds blow across water - plays a major factor in determining how rough the water will be. Start out practicing high wind paddling in areas with less fetch and work your way up. The difference in a 1 mile fetch on a windy day and a 7 mile fetch can be huge.

Learn how to roll. Bailing out increases your exposure and reduces your options of getting to shore safely. Knowing you can roll allows you to push bracing and edging to their limits, allowing you to hone these skills in calmer conditions.

If paddling far from shore, tether yourself to the kayak. You'll hear a lot of arguments pro and con about this, but if you are in conditions far from shore that could cause you to lose your kayak, this is really a no-brainer. Carry a knife or seatbelt cutter in case you get entrapped in the line. I tether myself by attaching my waist tow-belt to a deck line. If I need to come out of the kayak, as much line as needed is easily pulled out to get me clear.

Pass on practicing in thunderstorms. Carry an indestructible spare paddle. Study the effects land has on the wind and waves. Try and paddle with someone else of higher skill level, or at least try and find someone to keep an eye on you from shore. Expand your skills gradually; don't try to become a five star paddler in one day. Skilled paddlers have experience, and experience is built over time.

What did I miss?

Woody

Drip rings

I usually take drip rings off my paddle during the summer. Prefering the silence of entry to the water over the water dripping on my hands. But in winter, the cold water wins, so I slip the rings back on.

The rings need to be just outside the hands, not down near the blade where they will be submerged on each stroke. If your drip rings go below the surface, every bit of water on the paddle shaft above the rings will run down to your hands, causing them to chill much quicker.

A lower and slower paddle stroke will also help keep the water from running to your hands.

Required Equipment

This is a quick reference. It has been drastically trimmed down to only what is required by KAYAKS. Local and State laws may impose additional requirements, and the USCG rules are subject to change. You can read the USCG interpretation of the federal requirements here.

Personal Flotation Devices (PFD)

All kayaks must carry one wearable PFD (Type I, II, III or Type V PFD) for each person aboard. A Type V PFD provides performance of either a Type I, II, or III PFD (as marked on its label) and must be used according to the label requirements. Kayaks are exempt from carrying the additional throwable PFD (Type IV PFD) that is required for other boats over 16'.

PFDs must be

• Coast Guard approved
• In good and serviceable condition
• The appropriate size for the intended user

Accessibility

• PFDs must be readily accessible
• You must be able to put them on in a reasonable amount of time in an emergency (vessel sinking, on fire, etc.)
• They should not be stowed in plastic bags, in locked or closed compartments or have other gear stowed on top of them
• The best PFD is the one you will wear.

Though not required, a PFD should be worn at all times when the kayak is underway. A PFD can save your life, but only if you wear it.

Federal law does not require PFDs on racing shells, rowing sculls, racing canoes, and racing kayaks; state laws vary. Check with your state boating safety officials.

If you are boating in an area under the jurisdiction of the Army Corps of Engineers, or a federal, state, or local park authority, other rules may apply.

Visual Distress Signals

Kayaks used on coastal waters, the Great Lakes, territorial seas, and those waters connected directly to them, up to a point where a body of water is less than two miles wide, must be equipped with U.S.C.G. approved visual distress signals. Kayaks owned in the United States operating on the high seas must be equipped with U.S.C.G. approved visual distress signals.

Kayaks (if manually propelled) are not required to carry day signals but must carry night signals when operating from sunset to sunrise when required by the previous paragraph.

Pyrotechnic Devices

Pyrotechnic Visual Distress Signals must be Coast Guard Approved, in serviceable condition, and readily accessible.

They are marked with an expiration date. Expired signals may be carried as extra equipment, but can not be counted toward meeting the visual distress signal requirement, since they may be unreliable.

If pyrotechnic devices are selected a minimum of three are required and must meet night requirements. Some pyrotechnic signals meet only day, only night, or both day and night requirements.

Pyrotechnic devices should be stored in a cool, dry location, if possible.

A watertight container painted red or orange and prominently marked "DISTRESS SIGNALS" or "FLARES" is recommended.
U.S.C.G. Approved Pyrotechnic Visual Distress Signals and associated devices include:

• Pyrotechnic red flares, hand-held or aerial
• Launchers for aerial red meteors or parachute flares

Non-Pyrotechnic Devices

Non-Pyrotechnic Visual Distress Signals must be in serviceable condition, readily accessible, and certified by the manufacturer as complying with U.S.C.G. requirements:

Electric distress light

• Accepted for night use only
• Automatically flashes the international SOS distress signal: (... - - - ...)
• Must be marked with an indication that it meets Coast Guard requirements in 46 CFR 161.013.
• Under Inland Navigation Rules, a high intensity white light flashing at regular intervals from 50-70 times per minute is considered a distress signal. Such devices do NOT count toward meeting the visual distress signal requirement, however.

Regulations prohibit display of visual distress signals on the water under any circumstances except when assistance is required to prevent immediate or potential danger to persons on board a vessel.

All distress signals have distinct advantages and disadvantages. No single device is ideal under all conditions or suitable for all purposes. Pyrotechnics are universally recognized as excellent distress signals. However, there is potential for injury and property damage if not properly handled. These devices produce a very hot flame and the residue can cause burns and ignite flammable materials.

Pistol launched and hand-held parachute flares and meteors have many characteristics of a firearm and must be handled with caution. In some states they are considered a firearm and prohibited from use.

Sound Producing Devices

The navigation rules require sound signals to be made under certain circumstances. Meeting, crossing and overtaking situations described in the Navigation Rules section are examples of when sound signals are required. Kayaks are also required to sound signals during periods of reduced visibility. The most common sound producing device a kayaker carries is a whistle.

Navigation Lights

.: Link to Applicable code :.

Kayaks are required to display navigation lights between sunset and sunrise and other periods of reduced visibility (fog, rain, haze, etc.).

Vessel Under Oars

Kayaks should display lights for a sailboat (Figures 2 or 3), if practical. As an option, you may carry a flashlight or lighted lantern that can show a white light in sufficient time to prevent collision. (see Figure 4)

Figure 2	Figure 3
Figure 4

Note TITLE 33 CHAPTER 34 SUBCHAPTER I Part C Sec. 2020(b)!

"The Rules concerning lights shall be complied with from sunset to sunrise, and during such times no other lights shall be exhibited, except such lights as cannot be mistaken for the lights specified in these Rules or do not impair their visibility or distinctive character, or interfere with the keeping of a proper lookout."

Radio Regulations

Kayaks do not have to carry a marine radio. Any kayak that carries a marine radio must follow the rules of the Federal Communications Commission (FCC).

The FCC does not require operators of kayaks to carry a radio or to have an individual license to operate VHF marine radios (with or without digital selective calling capability), EPIRBs, or any type of radar. Operators must however follow the procedures and courtesies that are required of licensed operators specified in FCC Rules. You may use the name or registration number of your kayak to identify your ship station.

Users of VHF marine radio equipped with digital selective calling will need to obtain a maritime mobile service identity (MMSI) number from the FCC. It is unlawful to use digital selective calling without obtaining this identity.

Radio Listening Watch

Kayaks which voluntarily carry a radio, must maintain a watch on channel 16 (156.800 MHz) whenever the radio is operating and not being used to communicate. You may alternatively maintain a watch on VHF channel 9 (156.450 MHz), the boater calling channel.

Distress Call Procedures

1. Make sure radio is on
2. Select Channel 16
3. Press/Hold the transmit button
4. Clearly say: MAYDAY MAYDAY MAYDAY
5. Also give:

• Vessel Name and/or Description
• Position and/or Location
• Nature of Emergency
• Number of People on Board

6. Release transmit button.
7. Wait for 10 seconds - If no response Repeat "MAYDAY" Call.

VA/MD/DC specific requirements

Virginia Requirements

Note that most areas of the Potomac river are under the jurisdiction of Maryland!

Virginia has no safety boating course requirements for kayaks, but does recommend one.

You are not required to number/register your kayak in Virginia.

Maryland Requirements

Effective April 1, 2006, all children under the age of 4 or weighing less than 50 pounds shall wear a PFD that will:

1. Hold the child securely within the personal flotation device, including a STRAP that is secured between the child’s legs to fasten together the front and back of the personal flotation device;
2. Maintain the buoyancy of the child, including an INFLATABLE HEADREST OR HIGH COLLAR;
3. Ensure the ready accessibility of the child from the vessel, including a WEB HANDLE.

Children under the age of 7 MUST wear a PFD at all times in a kayak.

You must wear a U.S. Coast Guard approved Type I, II, III, or V PFD at all times when on the Upper Potomac River between November 15 and the following May 15. This regulation is in addition to class III, IV and V White Water Stream segment regulations which require PFDs to be worn at all times by persons underway.

You are not required to number/register your kayak in Maryland.

District of Columbia

District of Columbia Municipal Regulations (DCMR) Title 19, Chapter 10, Section 1026 states, "Any person who is operating or navigating any vessel shall have in his or her possession satisfactory evidence of having completed an approved boating safety course, or the person shall make evidence of having completed a boating safety course available to the Harbor Master at the vessel's launching or berthing point on the shore adjacent to the District of Columbia Waters." An Approved boating safety course is any course approved by the National Association of State Boating Law Administrators(NASBLA)

You must number/register your kayak if housed in the District.

Except as permitted by the Harbor Master under safe conditions,
no person shall engage in any recreational activities that include, or may result in, direct physical contact with ice on District of Columbia waters.

You need a Painter

If there is ever the possibility you will get out on a high dock or need to tie your kayak off to the bank while you leave it floating in the water, you need a painter. A painter is a short piece of rope (~10-15 feet) on your front deck you can tie your kayak off to a dock or a tree limb. Although it will lie useless on your deck most of the time (make sure it is taught so that you don't get yourself or your paddle caught up in it), when you need one there is no substitute.

Woody

Under arm chafing

What works for me:

1) Don't let the underarm hair get too long. I guess that is mostly a statement for the guys ;) You don't have to shave it, but keeping it trimmed down helps a *lot*. When shirts I normally wear kayaking start to chafe, I know it is time for a trim.

2) Don't wear deodorant. It causes additional friction under your arms. If your paddle mates complain just shift down wind of them.

3) Wear shirts that are loose in that area or splurge on a rash guard. Something loose is much easier to adjust under a dry suit than something tight. Poly football style jersey or any other poly jersey seems to work for me. It doesn't add much to the thermal layer for winter kayaking, but the slick material will help keep outer layers from bunching/chafing if they are also loose. Loose shirts work great in the summer.

Latex Socks

When trying to slip on your neoprene shoes over the latex socks of your drysuit, you'll find they are very stubborn. But at the end of the day after they have gotten wet they just slip off as if dipped in oil.

So why not get them wet first and make things much easier? Just dip your shoes in at the water's edge and drain the excess before changing into your drysuit. Now when it comes time to slide on the shoes they will go on with no resistance!

Wall Clouds

Study the following photos closely as they could save your life. These clouds, as a minimum, will be carrying winds of 30-60 mph and can gust much higher. They can spawn a tornado. I've been caught on the water 3 times as one of these approached - twice I was lucky enough to make it to shore, and a third time I made the mistake of listening to someone else.

They can be long or short, but the primary characteristic is they will be traveling under the main cloud base at high speed. Winds can last 15-20 minutes and are sometimes accompanied by hail.

Don't underestimate these winds! I once made it to shore to seek cover when the wind came up and whipped my kayak off shore and blew it back in to the water. Use your painter to tie the kayak to something substantial before taking shelter.

If caught out on the water, your best bet may be to wet exit and hide under the cockpit of the upturned kayak before the winds arrive _if_ there is not a lot of fetch to build up large waves. This will help prevent you from getting knocked over and losing your kayak when you wet exit in the storm as well as protect your head from hail. You may want to think about using the painter as a tether.

Time is of the essence. When you spot one of these head toward the nearest cover as quickly as you can. If you are lucky you may spot this 5-10 minutes before it arrives, but most likely it will only be a few minutes away when it catches your attention. These clouds will move very fast so don't think - just do. As you begin to feel the winds know you only have a few seconds to decide what course of action to take.

Woody

After writing the above, some folks posted their experiences with wall clouds in the CPA list server. Reproduced here with their permission, you might gain some valuable insight into dealing with these high winds.

From Mike Vandamm:

About 7 years ago while crossing the mouth of the Magothy solo on a
bright summer's afternoon with a "very slight chance of a thunderstorm", a solid, almost black wall cloud very suddenly towered up in the western sky. I was about a mile and a half from the nearest beach, and the same distance from the Baltimore Light. Thinking that the beach, which was largely bulkheaded, would offer little shelter, I sprinted for the southeastern side of the Light where, in a V-shaped pocket of water slightly longer than a kayak, keeping my bow within inches of the base of the Light with vigorous forward paddling, I survived for about 20 minutes while winds up to 73 knots (measured at the Thomas Point Light a few miles to the south) and a rapid train of steep 3-4 foot waves whipped around the Light. Baltimore and Annapolis were blasted by the squall line but the D.C. Metro area learned about it only on the evening news, indicating that the weather event originated in the few miles immediately to the west of the Bay.

Experiences like mine are not exactly commonplace on the Chesapeake, but the Law of Large Numbers suggests that a low probabity event repeated many times will eventually yield an interesting trip report.

Mike Vandamm

From Greg Welker:

I got caught by a small one of these doing a short crossing of the Potomac several years ago. It got me about 1/2 mile from the downwind shore. Not seeing large waves as part of the wind, I put the boat perpendicular to the wind, extended my greenland paddle out into an low brace on the WINDWARD side so that it was buried about 1 - 1.5 feet below the water surface, and bent forward over the paddle to lower myself toward the boat. I then leaned the boat into the wind. This worked well in giving a stable position, but I had to make sure the paddle stayed under the surface as it acted as a drogue to keep me from being blown over.

I would not try this method in large waves.

Turning

Going through some old emails to add a bit to this section. Here is one on turning:

One of the two most common mistakes I see folks make is trying to turn the 'bow' by sweeping from the front of the kayak. As a kayak moves forward, the bow builds up pressure against the water and effectively becomes anchored in place. The stern on the other hand, is in a low pressure area, and slides easily from left to right. When your bow 'turns into the wind' it is actually your stern slipping down wind easier, pointing your bow into the wind.

Novice paddlers will often resort to a stern rudder to turn down wind after trying unsuccessfully to sweep. The reason this is so effective is that it is easier to move the stern than it is the bow. Put your energies into the last half of your sweep stroke unless you are turning in place.

The second item to pay attention to is the tilt or lean of your boat. To turn downwind, edge your boat to the windward side. To facilitate turning, edge to the outside of the turn. Think of the underwater profile of your boat as you do this. If you edge toward the outside of your turn, your stern will 'dig in' if the wind tries to push it around, piling up water against the stern.

You can leverage this edging when paddling slightly up wind, down wind, or beam on to the wind. To paddle slightly into the wind, edge your boat away from the wind. This will allow your stern to easily slip and turn you into the wind. Edge toward the wind to cause your stern to dig in and you will find it easier to paddle beam on the wind or partially down wind.

Depending on your boat, you may need a bit of a skeg in the rear. This anchors your stern a little more, causing it to slip less. But a little edging may be all you need.

Minimum cold water gear

What is minimum required gear? I have shortie wet suit and various pieces of dry tops.

An excellent question, and one I seem to be asked often.

I actually have to ask myself the same question about my own gear from time to time. So here are a few things to consider:

1) Am I willing to swim in the gear I plan to wear? This isn't a
rhetorical question - the answer has to be backed up by action. So if I ever, ever, ever question what I'm wearing, I'll swim in it - in the conditions I plan to paddle in. No amount of speculation can substitute for that.

One thing I hear over and over again in the cold water introductions I do is how different the experience of being in cold water is than they ever imagined - even when bagged head to toe in a dry suit! The second thing I hear often is the drastic difference they notice in something as small as a 5 degree temperature change (e.g. 45 degree water is MUCH different than 50 degree water). For example, if you've swam your gear at 50 degrees, it isn't a safe assumption to think you will be ok in 45 degree water - the difference is just too vast.

2) People are different. I'm a big fat guy so cold water doesn't affect me as quickly as a skinny person. This all goes back to item #1 - swim your gear so you know. What works for one can kill another.

3) What risks do I put the group in by going out with them? I'm a big
believer in the adage that we are all adults and should make our own decisions, and that works for solo paddling. But in a group environment if I get into trouble because I under dressed, chances are someone in the group is going to try and help. So by my decision to paddle without proper protection now puts one or more other people in a higher risk category than if I chose to stay home.

So how do I know if I'm not increasing the group's risk? Yep, you got it - swim your gear!

4) In the event the worst happens to me, I've left some major social
baggage with the survivors of the group. While it is easy to say from a distance that 'he knew what he was getting in to', in practice very few people would not feel some guilt.

As a courtesy to a trip leader, never put the burden on them to decide for you. No one likes being a bad guy and say no. This is a tough one because every trip leader will have different acceptable levels of perceived risk that they are willing to accept. If you are unsure of what a trip leader is willing to accept, it is certainly ok to ask, but you should know yourself that what you are asking is safe (swim your gear!). Some trip leaders will require dry suits after the water gets below some arbitrary temperature. Being able to say "How about I come out a few minutes early, wet exit in my gear and swim 100 feet?" goes a long way to showing that you not only know your gear's capabilities and your own body's tolerance for cold, but also that you won't be a significant risk to the group.

For more cold water info, see this link:

Cold Water Safety

Woody