August 31, 2004

Tangier Island Part 3 - Departing from History

Around 4:30 we gathered for our walk to the other side of the island. Crossing one of the 4 bridges that span the small creek that cuts through the island we strolled through this small piece of land in the middle of the Chesapeake Bay.

Tangier is about 11 miles from the nearest mainland - Crisfield MD about 11 miles away on the eastern shore as the crow flies. On the western shore lies Reedville VA about 14 miles away. I learned from the history book I had bought the day before that most of the history claimed on the island's historical marker is incorrect.

For example, the historical marker claims the island was visited and given its name by John Smith in 1608, but according to the history book I bought, John Smith never actually landed on Tangier, and called the island chain from Smith to Tangier the "Russels Isles" after a traveling companion of John Smith. It was almost 100 years later before the first reference to 'Tangier' can be found.

There is also the claim that the island was settled by John Crockett in 1686, but the first Crockett to settle on the island was Joseph Crockett sometime between 1744 when he disappeared from Smith Island and 1778 when he purchased 450 acres on Tangier.

At Hilda Crockett's we went inside for a family style dinner. The menu for lunch/dinner has not changed since 1986 - Dinner consists of clam fritters, baked Virginia Ham, potato salad, coleslaw, pickled beets, apple-sauce, green-beans, hot corn pudding, two Chesapeake Bay Crab Cakes, home-made rolls and fresh daily baked butter pound cake. All this for $17, which is a bargain compared to the other places to eat on the island.

After dinner we walked back to Shirley's down the school road. In the church yard we paused at the graveyard for many of the island's past residents.

Between the late 1700's and the end of the war of 1812, Tangier was used as a base for the British. The island often hoisted the British or American flag depending on what ship was visiting at the time. Pirates (picaroons) loyal to the British ran rampant through this section of the Bay and it was from Tangier that the British launched their attack on Washington and burned it to the ground. It was also from this tiny isle that the British launched their attack on Baltimore and were repelled after the commanding Admiral was killed.

Back at the B&B we decided on a moonlight paddle, but as the evening grew closer we indivudually all decided not to go, something that as I sit and write this, now regret. As dark approached we reddied our gear for the trip home, putting our stuff in the hatches of our kayaks.

On my Explorer HV I strapped on the cart then stacked Katie's boat atop mine and strapped it in as well. One less trip in the morning.

We socialized on the deck a bit that evening but soon we all turned in for the night.

In the morning I got up about 5:45 am. After getting dressed I pushed the 2 kayaks on the cart out to the street and started toward the dock. The cart pushed sluggishly because the tires were underinflated and by the time I got to the mail boat I was covered in sweat.

One of the helpers on the mail boat was already there and helped me load the kayaks. The Explorer we loaded next to the rail while the Mystic we set on top of the boxes of crabs on the stern of the boat.

The air was thick with humidity as I walked back to the inn. Mark had come out and it looked like Ron had already headed off with another cart and kayak. Mark and I strapped 2 more kayaks to my cart and headed down the road again. After unloading the kayaks I hot footed it back to the B&B to wake up Katie for breakfast. I passed the Labbe's and Carolyn along the way. Carolyn was having problems with the weight of the kayak because of the stern attached cart she was using. I told her to get my cart from Mark when he came by and off I went to get Katie.

After waking Katie all the kayaks were gone so I sat on the porch and watched the rain start to fall. As everyone gathered for breakfast I stayed on the porch chatting with Wallace about the rebuilding of the island after last year's hurricane. The rain became very heavy at times but let up as folks finished up their breakfast.

After some last minute rushing we headed off to the dock to board the mail boat. Wallace had warned that the boat sometimes leaves early and at 7:55 am the captain fired up the engines and we were backing out from the dock.

I snapped a lot of pictures on the way out of the harbor. It was amazing the amount of rebuilding that had taken place in the last year. We all gathered on the rear deck and watched the island slip away as the rain came back along with some strong wind. In the distance lightning flashed and I was happy to be on the mail boat and not in the middle of crossing by kayak.

Forty minutes later we slipped in to the Crisfield dock. The kayaks and luggage were unloaded and we piled in to the Labbe's car to shuttle us back to the motel.

One of the streets back to the motel was heavily flooded. We slowly made our way through the water and picked up all of our vehicles and headed back to the dock. After I parked the car Katie and I loaded our kayaks and reluctently said our goodbyes.

End

Return to Part 1